I was pleased and proud to see that Australia dominated the list of Most Livable Cities for August 2011.
Australia had 4 cities gain the Top 10 list. Melbourne came in at no 1, Sydney at no 7, and Perth and Adelaide equal 8th place.
Canada managed 3 cities in the list as well.
One criticism of the list is that the cost of living was NOT taken into account, and as us Aussies know, our cost of living is one of the highest in the world. Which is why I'm living in Mexico, which incidentally didn't appear in the top 10, probably not in the top 100!
I may not be there right now, and not even planning to return at this point, but it doesn't mean I'm not still very proud to be Australian. Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, oi, oi, oi!
Enjoying Mexico
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
I swam with Whale Sharks!
I have to tell you, it was an amaaaazzzzzing experience. To be so close to these huge animals, swimming alongside them as they cruise along, it's like nothing I've ever done before. I thought seeing a turtle up close was great, so how much better this 5metre spotty fish.
Our organised trip the week before had been cancelled when Hurricane Irene passed close, and this Sunday it was raining heavily as we drove to Cancun at 6am, but the captain assured us the weather was fine there. There were only 3 of us, me and my friends Carla and Carla. It started to rain on our way out in the boat, and continued for about 1/2 the time we were out. Unfortunately the rain and cooler weather affected the numbers of whale sharks we saw. The captain said on a hot sunny day there were 100s, but we only saw 3, none of which spent a lot of time on the surface, preferring the warmth of the deeper water. Still, seeing one was enough to thrill me!
Yes, that's its mouth open and catching food - glad I stuck mostly to his side!
We needed to be suited up in our snorkel gear, legs hanging over the side of the boat, ready to jump when a shark was sighted. You jump in and start swimming - these guys move fast and he who hesitates won't get to see it. I was surprised when I got back to the boat how exhausted I was, and I guess a bit overwhelmed as well, this is not something you get to do often! Although there were lots of other people in the water, when you are looking down at the shark you really don't notice, it just feels like you and him!
Whalesharks are in our area from mid May to September, so for anyone looking for a fantastic experience, that's the time to book a visit.
On a less happy note, the locker where the captain told us all to leave our bags, got flooded, and now neither my camera nor my mobile phone are working. Turned out to be an expensive day, but still a great experience and one I wouldn't hesitate to repeat.
Here is a video from friend Carla took:
http://www.youtube.com/user/playadelcarmenrenta#p/a/u/2/7rkCaEzMY-0
We needed to be suited up in our snorkel gear, legs hanging over the side of the boat, ready to jump when a shark was sighted. You jump in and start swimming - these guys move fast and he who hesitates won't get to see it. I was surprised when I got back to the boat how exhausted I was, and I guess a bit overwhelmed as well, this is not something you get to do often! Although there were lots of other people in the water, when you are looking down at the shark you really don't notice, it just feels like you and him!
Whalesharks are in our area from mid May to September, so for anyone looking for a fantastic experience, that's the time to book a visit.
On a less happy note, the locker where the captain told us all to leave our bags, got flooded, and now neither my camera nor my mobile phone are working. Turned out to be an expensive day, but still a great experience and one I wouldn't hesitate to repeat.
Here is a video from friend Carla took:
http://www.youtube.com/user/playadelcarmenrenta#p/a/u/2/7rkCaEzMY-0
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Cacao and Tavo
My new foster kittens are called Cacao and Tavo.
Cacao the white kitten is about 3 months old, the story of her capture as a kitten is epic at Coco's. When the normal cat catchers were unable to entrap her, the fire brigade was called. After several unsuccessful attempts, one of which saw fireman grabbing her by the back legs and pulling until Laura thought her legs must surely break, and with Cacao hissing and spitting at anyone who came close, they were asked to give the catchers another 24 hours. They set up a clever trap where Cacao's mother, who had been desexed, was "bait" in one cage with another cage placed in front of it. Of course, Cacao wanted to cuddle up with her mum, and was finally caught and rejoined her sister at Coco's refuge.
She continued her bad behaviour there until her sister was adopted, when she underwent a remarkable change, becoming affectionate and calm. She also realised she was alone and she didn't like that.
Tavo (short for Gustavo) had been found not long before and was almost through his quarantine period when his room mate found a home. He retreated into his bed and became withdrawn and worried.
Laura, Coco's founder, heard Cacao crying from 2 houses away, and decided to put the 2 together. There was a lot of hissing and bullying by Cacao, but the crying stopped.
When I got to kitten-cuddling, Tavo was still hiding and Cacao still hissing, but Tavo responded well to a cuddle when I managed to lure him from his hiding place, giving me nose butts. Laura asked me to foster them both, and being placed in a cage together (so that I could take them home on the bus) produced lots of hissing, but no blood was shed.
At home, Tavo found new places to hide, but Cacao didn't miss a beat. Her silky white coat and prettily-coloured face gave her instant appeal and she knew it, winding herself shamelessly around my legs and asking to be picked up.
I had to creep up on Tavo to ba able to cuddle him at all, but once trapped he responded well. I left him alone most of the time to find his place, and gradually the two started to play without hissing.
A week later they are the best of friends, playing constantly before falling asleep close together.
Tavo is still skittish at times, he likes to show his affection by nibbles - a finger, the chain around my neck, my earring (with ear) are his favourites. I'm trying to show him that bites don't work with humans, but he's not the sharpest knife in the block! His efforts to catch me unawares in bed at night to chew on my earlobe are rewarded by being put on the floor. I'm sure he'll settle eventually, he is still quite young.
Cacao continues to be sweet and cuddly. She'd made a great pet for an older person as she neither bites nor scratches, and her fur is so soft it feels like velvet.
Together they are like a tornado, until their energy falls, and then they drop where they are to recharge.
 |
| Relaxing on the coffee table |
 |
| Sleepytime! |
Tavo (short for Gustavo) had been found not long before and was almost through his quarantine period when his room mate found a home. He retreated into his bed and became withdrawn and worried.
Laura, Coco's founder, heard Cacao crying from 2 houses away, and decided to put the 2 together. There was a lot of hissing and bullying by Cacao, but the crying stopped.
 |
| Tavo looking thoughtful |
At home, Tavo found new places to hide, but Cacao didn't miss a beat. Her silky white coat and prettily-coloured face gave her instant appeal and she knew it, winding herself shamelessly around my legs and asking to be picked up.
I had to creep up on Tavo to ba able to cuddle him at all, but once trapped he responded well. I left him alone most of the time to find his place, and gradually the two started to play without hissing.
A week later they are the best of friends, playing constantly before falling asleep close together.
 |
| Tavo ready to pounce |
Cacao continues to be sweet and cuddly. She'd made a great pet for an older person as she neither bites nor scratches, and her fur is so soft it feels like velvet.
Together they are like a tornado, until their energy falls, and then they drop where they are to recharge.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Volunteering at Coco's Cat Rescue
Just when I was starting to relax after my 3 days volunteering with the Vidas clinic, a call came from Coco's.
* They need people to come to weekly kitten-cuddling to help socialise kittens before they can be adopted.
* Foster carers needed because the centre is moving from one house to another.
* Volunteers to help paint the new premises
So off I trundled on the bus to Coco's on Friday. I cuddled every kitten there, whether it liked it or not. Sometimes the shy ones need extra love. I came home with 2 new guests - Cacao and Tavo.
On Monday I have volunteered to paint the new home, and the 2 kittens need to go back for their vaccinations, so I will spend the day there.
Seems to be a volunteering month..... wonder what else is to come?
* They need people to come to weekly kitten-cuddling to help socialise kittens before they can be adopted.
* Foster carers needed because the centre is moving from one house to another.
* Volunteers to help paint the new premises
So off I trundled on the bus to Coco's on Friday. I cuddled every kitten there, whether it liked it or not. Sometimes the shy ones need extra love. I came home with 2 new guests - Cacao and Tavo.
On Monday I have volunteered to paint the new home, and the 2 kittens need to go back for their vaccinations, so I will spend the day there.
Seems to be a volunteering month..... wonder what else is to come?
Volunteering at Vidas Sterilization Clinic
The VIDAS clinic started on Sat 13th, but as I wasn't back from Belize until Mon 15th, I put my name down for Tues, Wed afternoon, and Thursday. I'd never been to this clinic so had no idea what to expect.
The Vidas group send a team of vets, technicians, students and volunteers down to Playa del Carmen every year to perform free sterilizations for dogs and cats. Some of the team are sponsored but most pay their own airfare as well as having to pay someone else to handle their patients at home. I think they have been doing this for about 8 years so they have it pretty well down pat.
Admissions start at 9am and continue until around noon, although in practice they try to be as helpful as possible with people whose work schedules may not fit in. The pets are tagged, weighed, and given a general health checkover at admission. Cats are kept in cages (most admissions arrive in a shopping bag!) and dogs are tied in a waiting area. Then one by one, they are brought into the operating theatre, where a team administers a pre-med injection, inserts a breathing tube, shaves the area to be operated on and then carries them to the operating tables where the vets are lined up to start work. Sometimes with the larger dogs it might take a few people to keep the animal under control to have its injection; some of the biggest dogs were the biggest wimps. Although the most piercing howlers were the chihuahuas - a lot of voice for a tiny dog!
So, the production line continued, animals sedated and ready so that as soon as one animal was sewn up and taken to recovery, the next was placed on the table. There were usually 7 or 8 tables for dogs and 2 or 3 for cats.
Recovering cats were put back into their cages for everyone's safety, but recovering dogs need care, so that's where many of the volunteers worked, and where I started. The vet brought the dog out and there were 3 tables of volunteers to clip nails, clean out ears, remove ticks and fleas, all the while waiting for the dog to start to come around. When it started to cough or swallow, the breathing tube was removed, but usually it still took quite a while before the dog really started to come around. In the meantime, its tongue would be lolling out, and sometimes its head moving from side to side. Our job was to keep the animal calm, ensure it doesn't bang its head, and generally reassure it. When it tried to stand, we would help it take those first few wobbly steps, then usually carry it outside for a walk and toilet break. If all was going well, the catheter in its leg is then removed, anti-parasite treatment given, and its owner called to come get it. Depending on the dog the recovery process might be half an hour to an hour.
The dogs brought in ranged from tiny spoilt chihuahuas to large pit bulls who needed muzzles before they came to. Some were well cared for with shiny coats, some were full of ticks and fleas and looked like they had never seen a bath in their lives. We cared for them all.
On Tuesday afternoon, they asked for a volunteer to help with the instruments and so off I went to the operating theatre. There were 4 tubs of water - the first with an iodine wash, the second with bleach, 3rd clean water, and the 4th the sorting trays. The vets would bring their used instruments on a (sometimes bloody) tray and it was my job to scrub each one well with a toothbrush, removing the blood and any foreign bodies, then soak them in the bleach solution for 3 minutes, rinse in clean water then sort them so that the vets can find what they want for the next surgery. There were small, medium and large clamps, some curved some straight, needle holders, blade holders, pincers, blanket clamps, and who knows what else.
Sometimes I managed to catch up and get everything sorted, but then 4 surgeries would finish at once and I'd be overrun by instruments. Obviously every now and then the iodine water would get pretty foul and have to be changed, I tried to do it when I'd caught up but it didn't always work that way. Sometimes the vets would mention a certain item was low and I'd have to dig through the bowl to prioritise cleaning those instruments.
All around me, dogs were being walked in, dealt with and carried out, and music accompanied it all. It was generally a really good feeling inside the OR, with vets laughing chatting and joking together. Sometimes something weird would happen like the vet yelling because ticks were falling off her patient and crawling over her feet!
On Tuesday I worked from 9am till about 6.30, on Wednesday from 1 till 6 and Thursday from 10 till 6.30. I was pretty tired after just the 3 days, so I can imagine how exhausted those vets must have been, who had operated all day every day for 6 days straight! All in all, 823 animals were sterilized, all at no cost to their owners. The biggest day was the Tuesday with 101 dogs and 73 cats operated on.
Thanks so much to the VIDAS volunteers who made such a difference to the lives of animals here in Playa. Most of the owners would never be able to afford private sterilization, so the animal is left to the demands of its body. Many females die young, exhausted by continuous breeding. These animals will now lead happier healthier lives, and the overpopulation problem continues to improve. You can read more on the Vidas website: http://www.vidas.org/
The Vidas group send a team of vets, technicians, students and volunteers down to Playa del Carmen every year to perform free sterilizations for dogs and cats. Some of the team are sponsored but most pay their own airfare as well as having to pay someone else to handle their patients at home. I think they have been doing this for about 8 years so they have it pretty well down pat.
Admissions start at 9am and continue until around noon, although in practice they try to be as helpful as possible with people whose work schedules may not fit in. The pets are tagged, weighed, and given a general health checkover at admission. Cats are kept in cages (most admissions arrive in a shopping bag!) and dogs are tied in a waiting area. Then one by one, they are brought into the operating theatre, where a team administers a pre-med injection, inserts a breathing tube, shaves the area to be operated on and then carries them to the operating tables where the vets are lined up to start work. Sometimes with the larger dogs it might take a few people to keep the animal under control to have its injection; some of the biggest dogs were the biggest wimps. Although the most piercing howlers were the chihuahuas - a lot of voice for a tiny dog!
So, the production line continued, animals sedated and ready so that as soon as one animal was sewn up and taken to recovery, the next was placed on the table. There were usually 7 or 8 tables for dogs and 2 or 3 for cats.
Recovering cats were put back into their cages for everyone's safety, but recovering dogs need care, so that's where many of the volunteers worked, and where I started. The vet brought the dog out and there were 3 tables of volunteers to clip nails, clean out ears, remove ticks and fleas, all the while waiting for the dog to start to come around. When it started to cough or swallow, the breathing tube was removed, but usually it still took quite a while before the dog really started to come around. In the meantime, its tongue would be lolling out, and sometimes its head moving from side to side. Our job was to keep the animal calm, ensure it doesn't bang its head, and generally reassure it. When it tried to stand, we would help it take those first few wobbly steps, then usually carry it outside for a walk and toilet break. If all was going well, the catheter in its leg is then removed, anti-parasite treatment given, and its owner called to come get it. Depending on the dog the recovery process might be half an hour to an hour.
The dogs brought in ranged from tiny spoilt chihuahuas to large pit bulls who needed muzzles before they came to. Some were well cared for with shiny coats, some were full of ticks and fleas and looked like they had never seen a bath in their lives. We cared for them all.
On Tuesday afternoon, they asked for a volunteer to help with the instruments and so off I went to the operating theatre. There were 4 tubs of water - the first with an iodine wash, the second with bleach, 3rd clean water, and the 4th the sorting trays. The vets would bring their used instruments on a (sometimes bloody) tray and it was my job to scrub each one well with a toothbrush, removing the blood and any foreign bodies, then soak them in the bleach solution for 3 minutes, rinse in clean water then sort them so that the vets can find what they want for the next surgery. There were small, medium and large clamps, some curved some straight, needle holders, blade holders, pincers, blanket clamps, and who knows what else.
Sometimes I managed to catch up and get everything sorted, but then 4 surgeries would finish at once and I'd be overrun by instruments. Obviously every now and then the iodine water would get pretty foul and have to be changed, I tried to do it when I'd caught up but it didn't always work that way. Sometimes the vets would mention a certain item was low and I'd have to dig through the bowl to prioritise cleaning those instruments.
All around me, dogs were being walked in, dealt with and carried out, and music accompanied it all. It was generally a really good feeling inside the OR, with vets laughing chatting and joking together. Sometimes something weird would happen like the vet yelling because ticks were falling off her patient and crawling over her feet!
On Tuesday I worked from 9am till about 6.30, on Wednesday from 1 till 6 and Thursday from 10 till 6.30. I was pretty tired after just the 3 days, so I can imagine how exhausted those vets must have been, who had operated all day every day for 6 days straight! All in all, 823 animals were sterilized, all at no cost to their owners. The biggest day was the Tuesday with 101 dogs and 73 cats operated on.
Thanks so much to the VIDAS volunteers who made such a difference to the lives of animals here in Playa. Most of the owners would never be able to afford private sterilization, so the animal is left to the demands of its body. Many females die young, exhausted by continuous breeding. These animals will now lead happier healthier lives, and the overpopulation problem continues to improve. You can read more on the Vidas website: http://www.vidas.org/
BELIZE DAY 5 A SLOW SLOW TRIP HOME
I was awake and ready in plenty of time for the 8am-ish departure of the boat to Chetumal. Unfortunately the same couldn’t be said for the Belize immigration officer, who arrived at the terminal at 8.50am! I happened to be standing in the right position near his booth so was one of the first to have my passport processed, and by the time he slowly made his way through the line of others, it was close to 9.30 by the time we left the dock. I chose a seat next to an opening so as to have plenty of fresh air, but it also turned out to be the sunny side so I needed my hat and could have done with some sun lotion. Very little air came in and it was a hot sticky ride. They played another silly teenage movie - I guess they have to find something that will be finished within the 90 minute trip.
With the time difference, we arrived about 12 noon and first we had to leave all our hand luggage in a line so the sniffer dog could check it. Then we had to line up at immigration, but only to get the forms. It would have made more sense to give us the form on the boat as they had going to Belize, so it would be completed and ready to go. But why do things quickly when you can make a day of it? I was one of the first in the line, and had a pen in my bag so I got back and through fairly quickly - yay, a new 180day visa - the purpose of the whole trip accomplished! Next stop was customs where you hand in your form then press a button, if it lights green you walk in, if red your luggage gets checked. Very scientific! Unfortunately I got red, but he wasn’t very interested in my small bag, so I was out of there!
I walked into the “town”, found one of my fav iced coffees (it’s good to be back where Cafe Ole lives) and then further in and found a place selling rolls full of roast chicken for 20 pesos. Armed with lunch and some water, I caught a taxi to the bus station, where there were at least 20 people in front of me in the queue. I already had a ticket but as it was for open return, needed to get a seat. (Won’t do that again it was a waste of time if you still have to line up!). 40 minutes before the 1.30 bus left, I thought I’d have plenty of time but by the time I got to the front at 1.25 there were no seats left. Next bus 2.30pm. Oh well, plenty of time to eat lunch and relax.
The bus left on time and it was a comfortable trip, arriving around 7 and by 7,15pm I was home, so glad to be there.
A busy week coming up so I was in bed by 10.30.
With the time difference, we arrived about 12 noon and first we had to leave all our hand luggage in a line so the sniffer dog could check it. Then we had to line up at immigration, but only to get the forms. It would have made more sense to give us the form on the boat as they had going to Belize, so it would be completed and ready to go. But why do things quickly when you can make a day of it? I was one of the first in the line, and had a pen in my bag so I got back and through fairly quickly - yay, a new 180day visa - the purpose of the whole trip accomplished! Next stop was customs where you hand in your form then press a button, if it lights green you walk in, if red your luggage gets checked. Very scientific! Unfortunately I got red, but he wasn’t very interested in my small bag, so I was out of there!
I walked into the “town”, found one of my fav iced coffees (it’s good to be back where Cafe Ole lives) and then further in and found a place selling rolls full of roast chicken for 20 pesos. Armed with lunch and some water, I caught a taxi to the bus station, where there were at least 20 people in front of me in the queue. I already had a ticket but as it was for open return, needed to get a seat. (Won’t do that again it was a waste of time if you still have to line up!). 40 minutes before the 1.30 bus left, I thought I’d have plenty of time but by the time I got to the front at 1.25 there were no seats left. Next bus 2.30pm. Oh well, plenty of time to eat lunch and relax.
The bus left on time and it was a comfortable trip, arriving around 7 and by 7,15pm I was home, so glad to be there.
A busy week coming up so I was in bed by 10.30.
BELIZE DAY 4 DISAPPOINTED
I woke in the middle of the night with an awful headache, and my neck and back really tight. I tried getting up and stretching, massaging my neck and using the headache pressure point in my hand but to no avail. Every time I put my head back on the pillow it started to throb again. Finally after using the blanket to prop myself up, I fell into a fitful sleep in a half sitting position.
Not surprisingly I didn’t feel a lot better when I was woken up by people in the street yelling at 7am (not for the first time - people here seem to get up really early!). I tossed and turned dozing until 8.20, then decided a hot shower directed at my neck might do the trick. It didn’t, but I got dressed and out for a walk anyway. Tiffany told me that there was no snorkel trip this morning, but hopefully this afternoon.
I wandered down to the shop where I’d bought the perfume to get another, but found them closed. I decided a good long walk might help stretch my muscles so headed up to the north side of the island. All the notes I had taken from my guidebook of places to look out for - Mathieu’s deli, the ABC brewing co - were all closed. I picked up drinkable yoghurt from the supermarket and walked back to the Bakery for breakfast. I ordered the eggs with a toasted bagel; when I asked for them fried the waitress looked a little concerned. “Is that just turned over?” she asked. Fried eggs are obviously not the thing here! They turned out a bit overdone but OK, and came with an iced tea, all that for $B5 was a great deal - free internet an added bonus.
Home for a quick snooze to try to shake the headache. When the snorkel trip didn’t eventuate, I tried another place but they didn’t have one either this afternoon. Looks like I wasn’t meant to get out on the reef this time. The headache still nagging, I found a chemist open and she sold me some pain-relieving gel and strong panadol, both of which seemed to do the trick after an hour or so.
I spent the afternoon reading on the beach, and finally at about 5.30 realised that I’d missed lunch and needed a good dinner. After a few menu checks, I found a Lebanese restaurant called Island Secret where a huge chunk of red snapper came perfectly grilled with spices, and served with salad and rice. A nice glass of chilled white would have made it perfect, but wine seems rare here, and if found, horrendously expensive, so a glass of coke washed it down.
Some more wandering, looking in shops, as it was way too early for bedtime. There is very little to do in San Pedro apart from reef trips and shopping, and my 4 nights here turned out to be about 2 nights too many. The beaches are disappointing, the water dirty and full of weeds, there is way too much traffic for such a small place, food is expensive and frankly I don’t know what Madonna saw to make her write a song praising the place.
As Dorothy said to Toto “There’s no place like home”. And with 3 clicks of my heels (not easy in thongs) I’ll be on the boat early tomorrow morning heading back to my lovely Playa, and our gorgeous beaches. Good to travel, great to come home!
BELIZE DAY 3 - HOMESICK
I started the day with breakfast at The Bakery - delicious bagel with cream cheese, and free internet. Disappointing that of the 22 emails waiting for me from Thursday morning onwards, only one was a personal message. Well, no problems being without internet for a few days here!
After putting in a request for an afternoon snorkelling tour, I decided to walk towards the south of the island this morning. Today was very hot, and even with my hat on the sun was baking. Nothing much to see there so I wandered back to town for an iced coffee and picked up my gear for a swim. Most of the beaches have a lot of grass growing near the shore which makes it unpleasant getting in and out of the water, but I found a narrow strip relatively grassless leading out to some deeper water. The really shallow water is incredibly warm, almost bath temperature and not refreshing, so you really need to get out a bit deeper where the currents bring the cooler water in.
I enjoyed sitting under a palm tree watching the local kids playing at the water’s edge, but then it hit me that, as much of an island paradise this is, I actually missed my own tropical paradise. The beaches in Playa are way better, the water cleaner and you can wade in without fear of grass or weed. Here, by the time you wade through the slimy grass and hot water, the whole swimming experience is dulled. Oh well, at least I cooled off a bit. Returned to the hotel to find that there weren’t enough people for the afternoon snorkel tour, hopefully tomorrow. Showered off the salt and returned to the deckchairs on the beach in front of the hotel to read in the shade. A nice breeze blowing, the palm fronds waving, until it started to rain - just a tropical rainstorm, probably over soon - but when the drops continued falling on the pages of my book, I returned inside for a nanna nap.
When I awoke at 3pm, my stomach reminded me I hadn’t had lunch so I headed across the road to Celi’s deli for some fish empanadas. No, she tells me, we ran out at midday. Not my day today! Still, a chicken burrito eaten on the balcony at Ruby’s overlooking the beach, no cause for complaint. The rum cake rounded it off nicely thank you.
It was cooler about 6pm so I set off for my evening walk. There were some stalls in the main park and I picked up a dress and a pair of sandals for $B3 each. Found a store selling new release DVDs for $B5 so I got a few titles to add to my collection, hope they work at home but for $2.50 each it’s not major.
Bingo night at the local Lions Club didn’t really appeal, and I thought I’d find the Pupuseria for a snack. Pupusas are a corn tortilla with the filling of prawns, chicken or beef in the middle, then cooked on a hot grill plate.
Glancing into a side street, I saw money being exchanged between 2 men, then one bent down to retrieve something. A drug deal being done? No, with joy I saw him removing the lid of his esky to put 2 pies in a bag - it’s the Pie Man from my first night. Suddenly, that was exactly what I felt like for dinner. To make it really sinful, I bought a bottle of Coca Cola. I’m not really a soft drink fan but sometimes a Coke just hits the spot. I brought my booty home to eat on the deck as the full moon shone a silvery trail across the sea. Ah, all’s well with the world.
After putting in a request for an afternoon snorkelling tour, I decided to walk towards the south of the island this morning. Today was very hot, and even with my hat on the sun was baking. Nothing much to see there so I wandered back to town for an iced coffee and picked up my gear for a swim. Most of the beaches have a lot of grass growing near the shore which makes it unpleasant getting in and out of the water, but I found a narrow strip relatively grassless leading out to some deeper water. The really shallow water is incredibly warm, almost bath temperature and not refreshing, so you really need to get out a bit deeper where the currents bring the cooler water in.
I enjoyed sitting under a palm tree watching the local kids playing at the water’s edge, but then it hit me that, as much of an island paradise this is, I actually missed my own tropical paradise. The beaches in Playa are way better, the water cleaner and you can wade in without fear of grass or weed. Here, by the time you wade through the slimy grass and hot water, the whole swimming experience is dulled. Oh well, at least I cooled off a bit. Returned to the hotel to find that there weren’t enough people for the afternoon snorkel tour, hopefully tomorrow. Showered off the salt and returned to the deckchairs on the beach in front of the hotel to read in the shade. A nice breeze blowing, the palm fronds waving, until it started to rain - just a tropical rainstorm, probably over soon - but when the drops continued falling on the pages of my book, I returned inside for a nanna nap.
When I awoke at 3pm, my stomach reminded me I hadn’t had lunch so I headed across the road to Celi’s deli for some fish empanadas. No, she tells me, we ran out at midday. Not my day today! Still, a chicken burrito eaten on the balcony at Ruby’s overlooking the beach, no cause for complaint. The rum cake rounded it off nicely thank you.
It was cooler about 6pm so I set off for my evening walk. There were some stalls in the main park and I picked up a dress and a pair of sandals for $B3 each. Found a store selling new release DVDs for $B5 so I got a few titles to add to my collection, hope they work at home but for $2.50 each it’s not major.
Bingo night at the local Lions Club didn’t really appeal, and I thought I’d find the Pupuseria for a snack. Pupusas are a corn tortilla with the filling of prawns, chicken or beef in the middle, then cooked on a hot grill plate.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Belize Day 2 - We be jammin' on Caye Caulker
I was surprised how much I noticed the traffic noise when I went to bed, but in the end I slept well with the fan going strong, and woke around 8am.
First task was to go to the Post Office as it wouldn’t be open on the weekend, to post my parcel. That task completed I checked out some breakfast options and settled on The Bakery, where a flat white, a chocolate croissant which wasn’t far off foot-long, and a pineapple and coconut juice set me back less than $B10. I gave the croissant my best shot but couldn’t quite manage it all, although it certainly kept hunger pains away for many hours.
I decided to go over the Caye Caulker to swim, snorkel and check out the village. The boat left at San Pedro at 11.30am with the last return at 6.15, so I figured that would give me plenty of time to explore. It took only about 35 minutes and I headed down to the Split where I’d heard the snorkelling was good off the beach. Most of the “beaches” on both islands have a healthy grass growth near the shore so most swimming is done from piers. I found schools of very tiny fish and also some yellow and blue stripey ones in quite shallow water near some grass. I sat down on the sand to adjust my mask and got the shock of my life when I felt something move and grab my leg; I had sat on a crab about as big as my hand! I moved awfully fast and the crab scuttled off, no damage to anyone except my pride! He found himself another suitable spot and burrowed back under the sand for another unsuspecting swimmer to find!
I enjoyed relaxing under a palm tree near the water’s edge, my back against the tree to read for a while. By about 2.30 my stomach was starting to notice being empty again and I headed back towards the centre of town and then onto middle street to check out the offerings. I found Los Arcos serving $B9 Lobster Burritos, and pineapple juices with coconut rum at 2 for $B5, the food was prepared fresh and was delicious, and the drinks (called a panty ripper) were just what was needed for a hot Caribbean day. My young waitress told me about her dream to study tourism, now she travels to San Pedro on the 7am boat every day for school, returning at 5pm, because the school is bigger and better equipped.
I kept walking north on middle street until it ended, returning to front street. The sound of salsa music brought me to a beach bar where a 3-piece band were performing to a deserted room. I noticed several people swimming next door and decided to join them, the water was so hot it wasn’t really refreshing but when I got out the cool breeze on my wet skin was lovely. How delightful it is to swim with a musical accompaniment! I read for a while and watched kids play at the water’s edge. A craving for coffee had me on my feet again around 5.30, then I ambled back, checking out a few shops on the way, to the Police Station which is where the boat had docked. At 6.12 (3 minutes before the boat was due to leave) the dock was deserted; 2 other people wandered up around 6.20, but the boat didn’t appear until after 6.30 and the sky was already darkening by the time the passengers alighted and I climbed on board. The moon was almost full and I watched it shine across the sea as we returned to San Pedro. It was good to shower off the salty water, then I did a pleasant circuit around town to check out the jewellery and food stalls in the centre and some of the souvenir shops. Home by 9am where I added some vodka to the pineapple and coconut juice and nibbled on some peanuts, rinsed out swimmers ready for tomorrow. It’s really tiring doing nothing - lights out at 10.30!
I'm hoping to go out on the reef tomorrow afternoon to hug a nurse shark and touch a stingray!
First task was to go to the Post Office as it wouldn’t be open on the weekend, to post my parcel. That task completed I checked out some breakfast options and settled on The Bakery, where a flat white, a chocolate croissant which wasn’t far off foot-long, and a pineapple and coconut juice set me back less than $B10. I gave the croissant my best shot but couldn’t quite manage it all, although it certainly kept hunger pains away for many hours.
I decided to go over the Caye Caulker to swim, snorkel and check out the village. The boat left at San Pedro at 11.30am with the last return at 6.15, so I figured that would give me plenty of time to explore. It took only about 35 minutes and I headed down to the Split where I’d heard the snorkelling was good off the beach. Most of the “beaches” on both islands have a healthy grass growth near the shore so most swimming is done from piers. I found schools of very tiny fish and also some yellow and blue stripey ones in quite shallow water near some grass. I sat down on the sand to adjust my mask and got the shock of my life when I felt something move and grab my leg; I had sat on a crab about as big as my hand! I moved awfully fast and the crab scuttled off, no damage to anyone except my pride! He found himself another suitable spot and burrowed back under the sand for another unsuspecting swimmer to find!
I enjoyed relaxing under a palm tree near the water’s edge, my back against the tree to read for a while. By about 2.30 my stomach was starting to notice being empty again and I headed back towards the centre of town and then onto middle street to check out the offerings. I found Los Arcos serving $B9 Lobster Burritos, and pineapple juices with coconut rum at 2 for $B5, the food was prepared fresh and was delicious, and the drinks (called a panty ripper) were just what was needed for a hot Caribbean day. My young waitress told me about her dream to study tourism, now she travels to San Pedro on the 7am boat every day for school, returning at 5pm, because the school is bigger and better equipped.
I kept walking north on middle street until it ended, returning to front street. The sound of salsa music brought me to a beach bar where a 3-piece band were performing to a deserted room. I noticed several people swimming next door and decided to join them, the water was so hot it wasn’t really refreshing but when I got out the cool breeze on my wet skin was lovely. How delightful it is to swim with a musical accompaniment! I read for a while and watched kids play at the water’s edge. A craving for coffee had me on my feet again around 5.30, then I ambled back, checking out a few shops on the way, to the Police Station which is where the boat had docked. At 6.12 (3 minutes before the boat was due to leave) the dock was deserted; 2 other people wandered up around 6.20, but the boat didn’t appear until after 6.30 and the sky was already darkening by the time the passengers alighted and I climbed on board. The moon was almost full and I watched it shine across the sea as we returned to San Pedro. It was good to shower off the salty water, then I did a pleasant circuit around town to check out the jewellery and food stalls in the centre and some of the souvenir shops. Home by 9am where I added some vodka to the pineapple and coconut juice and nibbled on some peanuts, rinsed out swimmers ready for tomorrow. It’s really tiring doing nothing - lights out at 10.30!
I'm hoping to go out on the reef tomorrow afternoon to hug a nurse shark and touch a stingray!
Belize Day 1
The ADO bus left Playa del Carmen at 9.20 and after a quick stop at Tulum an hour down the road, arrived in Chetumal at 1.50. We passed a large shopping centre not far from the bus station, but apart from that there didn’t seem to be much happening in Chetumal on a Thursday. A taxi dropped me at the dock where I was given my boat tickets and Belize customs and immigration forms, Mexican immigration was at the embarkation point to relieve me of my almost-expired visa and we set off at 3.30. It was a very bone-jolting ride of about 90 minutes, during which they showed a video and gave us a bag (!) of water and a miniscule packet of peanuts.
Customs and immigration at the wharf took no time and off I set for Ruby’s. Well at least I thought so, having read that the boat comes in at the end of Black Coral Street I worked out I’d just turn left at the road and Ruby’s would be a short shuffle along. When it didn’t appear I took another look and realised that the boat had come in on the lagoon side not the reef side, and so I was actually on Back Street, not Front Street. San Pedro having only 3 main streets, it wasn’t hard to find my destination once I compared my location with the map.
Tiffany who looked about 10 months pregnant, was waiting to check me in. She gave me my key, told me I could pay when I check out, then showed me to my room. It’s a small room but fortunately has a large single bed not a narrow one and I have my own bathroom and a very effective fan. The paint is peeling off the walls in large rubbery strips but it’s clean and for $15 a night I wasn’t expecting the Hilton!
5 minutes to unpack, take a nice cool shower and then I headed off to check out front street, now renamed Barrier Reef Drive. I found the tourist office and picked up plenty of brochures, then came across a Pub where I heard they did great Thai food. Unfortunately when I went in to ask about it, the owner told me that the kitchen had closed for the season 2 days ago and the cook had gone off sailing. I decided I’d better at least shout myself a welcome drink, and she mixed up a delicious concoction with lime and pineapple juice, coconut rum and dark rum and some peach liqueur. I was almost on my last slurp when the Pie Man arrived, carrying an esky with hot pies and pasties. The smell when he opened the lid was incredible and I remembered that I hadn’t had anything to eat that day except the chicken wrap I’d packed for the bus trip. 4 meat pies, each about 7cm across, cost me $5 Belize ($US2.50), and my drink cost the same. A quick trip to a supermarket yielded fruit juice and some Pringles as a side dish, then I found a seat in a park in front of the sea to devour my feast! The pies had a delicious gravy reminiscent of coriander and tomato and all 4 disappeared quickly! I was reminded that you don’t need silver service or even a nice restaurant for a 5star meal!
Stomach satisfied I resumed my exploration of San Pedro. At a largish shop near the airstrip, selling everything from undies to washing machines, I found a nice cap for $B5. I was surprised to find that perfumes were very cheap, and after a helpful salesgirl had sprayed various scents on every bit of exposed arm (both mine and hers), I left with a 100ml bottle of Lancome Benghal which she reduced from $B30 to 20 because it was the tester with no box and maybe 5ml missing. I was more than pleased with that, it‘s always nice to get a new perfume; I’ve been using the same one since I left Australia so it will be a nice change.
By the time I got back to Ruby’s I had bought myself a long halter dress for $B16.25, a card for Dad’s birthday and some postcards. I spiked the banana and pineapple juice drink with some vodka and finished off the Pringles. Feeling relaxed and mellow, it’s been a good day, and my adventure has just begun!
Customs and immigration at the wharf took no time and off I set for Ruby’s. Well at least I thought so, having read that the boat comes in at the end of Black Coral Street I worked out I’d just turn left at the road and Ruby’s would be a short shuffle along. When it didn’t appear I took another look and realised that the boat had come in on the lagoon side not the reef side, and so I was actually on Back Street, not Front Street. San Pedro having only 3 main streets, it wasn’t hard to find my destination once I compared my location with the map.
Tiffany who looked about 10 months pregnant, was waiting to check me in. She gave me my key, told me I could pay when I check out, then showed me to my room. It’s a small room but fortunately has a large single bed not a narrow one and I have my own bathroom and a very effective fan. The paint is peeling off the walls in large rubbery strips but it’s clean and for $15 a night I wasn’t expecting the Hilton!
5 minutes to unpack, take a nice cool shower and then I headed off to check out front street, now renamed Barrier Reef Drive. I found the tourist office and picked up plenty of brochures, then came across a Pub where I heard they did great Thai food. Unfortunately when I went in to ask about it, the owner told me that the kitchen had closed for the season 2 days ago and the cook had gone off sailing. I decided I’d better at least shout myself a welcome drink, and she mixed up a delicious concoction with lime and pineapple juice, coconut rum and dark rum and some peach liqueur. I was almost on my last slurp when the Pie Man arrived, carrying an esky with hot pies and pasties. The smell when he opened the lid was incredible and I remembered that I hadn’t had anything to eat that day except the chicken wrap I’d packed for the bus trip. 4 meat pies, each about 7cm across, cost me $5 Belize ($US2.50), and my drink cost the same. A quick trip to a supermarket yielded fruit juice and some Pringles as a side dish, then I found a seat in a park in front of the sea to devour my feast! The pies had a delicious gravy reminiscent of coriander and tomato and all 4 disappeared quickly! I was reminded that you don’t need silver service or even a nice restaurant for a 5star meal!
Stomach satisfied I resumed my exploration of San Pedro. At a largish shop near the airstrip, selling everything from undies to washing machines, I found a nice cap for $B5. I was surprised to find that perfumes were very cheap, and after a helpful salesgirl had sprayed various scents on every bit of exposed arm (both mine and hers), I left with a 100ml bottle of Lancome Benghal which she reduced from $B30 to 20 because it was the tester with no box and maybe 5ml missing. I was more than pleased with that, it‘s always nice to get a new perfume; I’ve been using the same one since I left Australia so it will be a nice change.
By the time I got back to Ruby’s I had bought myself a long halter dress for $B16.25, a card for Dad’s birthday and some postcards. I spiked the banana and pineapple juice drink with some vodka and finished off the Pringles. Feeling relaxed and mellow, it’s been a good day, and my adventure has just begun!
Thursday, August 4, 2011
La Isla Bonita
"Last night I dreamt of San Pedro....
Tropical the island breeze, all of nature wild and free, this is where I long to be, La Isla Bonita"
Well, if it's good enough for Madonna, then I'm sure I'll be just fine. Next Thursday I head off for a few days in Belize, staying at La Isla Bonita, Ambergris Caye (that's "key"). Their motto is Go Slow.
The reason for my trip is that my 180-day tourist visa in Mexico is about to expire. Cuba was looking a likely candidate for some weeks, so much so that I stocked up with soap and toothpaste. Weird as that sounds, it seems that most personal hygiene articles are almost impossible to buy in Cuba, so it's customary to tip (and sometimes even pay!) in bars of soap and bottles of shampoo. Leave these items for the cleaning staff in your hotel and you will be assured of top-class service for the duration of your stay.
Las Vegas and Disneyworld were also-rans, but the airfares for the time I needed to go had no specials. In the end Belize won out for proximity, cost and a simple journey. The beauty of the island and surrounding reef is a bonus!
There is now a boat leaving from Chetumal, near the Mexican-Belize border, direct to San Pedro. Previously you had to bus it to Chetumal, take a taxi to the border, cross the free trade zone, into Belize, another taxi to the bus station and down to Corozal, from where a boat leaves every morning at 7am for the Cayes, necessitating an overnight stay in Corozal. The return boat left at 3.30, making another overnight stay highly likely.
Now I catch a 9.20 ADO bus for the 4hr 20 minute $20 trip to Chetumal. ADO have first class buses with toilets, reclining seats, DVDs to entertain you and air conditioning cold enough to hang meat (note to self: remember to pack a blanket!). The boat to San Pedro leaves at 3pm, giving me time for a quick lunch in town. By 5pm, I'll be settling into my room at Ruby's (private room with fan and my own bathroom for $15 a night), before heading to town for a tropical cocktail and to check out dinner options.
For sure I'll be going out on a snorkelling trip to the reef, to Hol Chan and Shark Alley where I'll see baby sharks, stingrays and lots of colourful fish.
I may also visit the Mayan site of Lamanai on the mainland, reached by a boat trip along the mangroves inhabited by lots of birds.
But I also want to just enjoy the beach and the ambience of the island, wandering barefoot along the sandy streets and checking out the shops and the local wood carvings.
This will be my 2nd time in Belize, I visited in 2008, here's me showing off my sunburn then - will try to be more careful this time!
We stayed then in Caye Caulker, so this will be my first time in Ambergris. It's a larger island with more development, whereas Caulker had just one sandy street and a dozen hotels. There are about 450 cayes in Belize. The country itself only gained independence from the UK in 1981 although there is still a british garrison stationed there due to border claims between Belize and Guatemala.
It is the only Central American country whose official language is English, which makes it easy for us Anglophiles. Their reef is the 2nd longest in the world after our own Great Barrier Reef, and home to an amazing diversity of marine life which I'm looking forward to seeing on my snorkel trip.
Here's to my new adventure!
Tropical the island breeze, all of nature wild and free, this is where I long to be, La Isla Bonita"
Well, if it's good enough for Madonna, then I'm sure I'll be just fine. Next Thursday I head off for a few days in Belize, staying at La Isla Bonita, Ambergris Caye (that's "key"). Their motto is Go Slow.
Las Vegas and Disneyworld were also-rans, but the airfares for the time I needed to go had no specials. In the end Belize won out for proximity, cost and a simple journey. The beauty of the island and surrounding reef is a bonus!
There is now a boat leaving from Chetumal, near the Mexican-Belize border, direct to San Pedro. Previously you had to bus it to Chetumal, take a taxi to the border, cross the free trade zone, into Belize, another taxi to the bus station and down to Corozal, from where a boat leaves every morning at 7am for the Cayes, necessitating an overnight stay in Corozal. The return boat left at 3.30, making another overnight stay highly likely.
Now I catch a 9.20 ADO bus for the 4hr 20 minute $20 trip to Chetumal. ADO have first class buses with toilets, reclining seats, DVDs to entertain you and air conditioning cold enough to hang meat (note to self: remember to pack a blanket!). The boat to San Pedro leaves at 3pm, giving me time for a quick lunch in town. By 5pm, I'll be settling into my room at Ruby's (private room with fan and my own bathroom for $15 a night), before heading to town for a tropical cocktail and to check out dinner options.
I may also visit the Mayan site of Lamanai on the mainland, reached by a boat trip along the mangroves inhabited by lots of birds.
But I also want to just enjoy the beach and the ambience of the island, wandering barefoot along the sandy streets and checking out the shops and the local wood carvings.
This will be my 2nd time in Belize, I visited in 2008, here's me showing off my sunburn then - will try to be more careful this time!
We stayed then in Caye Caulker, so this will be my first time in Ambergris. It's a larger island with more development, whereas Caulker had just one sandy street and a dozen hotels. There are about 450 cayes in Belize. The country itself only gained independence from the UK in 1981 although there is still a british garrison stationed there due to border claims between Belize and Guatemala.
Here's to my new adventure!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)