Day 9 waiting for the plumber

It’s now 9.30am and I’m up but not showered because the plumber is supposed to be coming this morning to fix the hot water. He said he would be here at 9am and I was expecting that about now I’d be having my first HOT shower since I’ve been here. I need to wash my hair and I just can’t face doing it in cold water again. Yes I know I’m a wuss and I don’t think it takes too much to make me happy, but hot water is high on the list (good coffee and wine are up there too!)

I have used the last half hour going around my bedroom tapping on the tiles to check for drummy ones. I found one by chance, but have now found 14 and haven’t yet checked under the bed! Which now means I’m going to have to go around the whole place, cos if the tiler was so slap-happy in one room that’s likely his style. Not sure what my chances are of actually getting them repaired, since it’s taken more than a week and a major drama to get hot water, and all for a part which costs less than $70!

It was grey this morning when I got up and now when I look out the window it’s raining, just a light shower. This part of Mexico gets very little rain so it will do the plants in our garden some good. I have bought myself some plants for my balcony - a golden cane palm about the same height as me, a pink and orange bougainvillea, a croton and a cordyline. But the building site next door is showering my balcony with dust and gravel on a daily basis, so I’m keeping the plants inside until they have finished that part of the construction. The building workers here seem to work 7 days a week, and start at 7am but sometimes earlier I hear them banging away. Not quite sure what they are actually doing but it seems to involve large hammers.

I’m almost surprised that they are still constructing new buildings. From what Arturo tells me, it’s very quiet in RE here at the moment and from what I know, only 2 of the 6 suites here are sold. I would imagine that the US market is their main source of buyers, but now that things aren’t too good there it’s dried up. Or else they fall in love with the place and want to buy, but when they get back to the states they can’t get the finance to complete the sale. If our banks in Aus are now making it much harder to get loans, how much more difficult would it be in the US who were the source of all the problems that affected everywhere else around the world?

Well it’s now 10.15 and he is officially late, even for Mexican time. I just sent him a message asking where he is, so I know whether or not he is on his way, and he responded OK 20 mins. That probably means around 11 so it’s not looking good for a shower before lunch! I need to go out to check my emails for the quote for the blinds, but as soon as I leave he’ll arrive so I just need to be patient.

At 10.40 the plumber’s apprentice arrived with a large element in his hand. He asked me which switch on the power board turned off the HWS, of course I didn’t know anything so he had to try them all. At 10.55 he said he’d be back in 5 minutes, and arrived again at 11.08. I asked was everything OK and he said yes, but I’m not feeling a lot of confidence….  he’s on the phone to his boss now, I think he’s getting running instructions, or maybe waiting for him to arrive too. No, now he’s off downstairs againWhen I asked this young man yesterday was he an apprentice, he said no, he would be going to Uni to study electrical engineering when the course starts in July.

The rain clouds have cleared and the sun and the heat is coming back - really hanging out for a shower now! Won’t be long, I keep telling myself.

At 11.26 the apprentice is back with what seems like a different element. He disappears into the laundry and next I can hear water running, he is emptying the tank. This seems to be progress, maybe he does know what he’s doing after all! Several buckets full disappear onto the garden. I leave him to it and go back to my book, I hear water running and he asks for a mop which I don’t yet own, so I give him some cleaning cloths. Progress seems to be slow, or there is a leak he can’t fix.

At 12.40 he shows me the burnt-out element, it’s a real mess. He then announces that it’s done, and starts packing up. He says it will take about 20 minutes for the water to heat. By 12.50 he is gone, & I’m hoping he’s right. The tank isn’t warm yet….

At 1.15 I tried the tap in the kitchen, I need to wash up anyway. Nothing. At 1.30 I turn on the hot water in the bathroom basin. I think it might be slightly warmer than cold, but it’s nowhere near hot. I’m going to give it another 15 minutes then call him back.

Arturo phoned at 1.40 and I told him it doesn’t seem to be working, but that I would give it a bit more time. The tank does have something about a thermostat written on it, so maybe that needs to be adjusted? I’m getting pretty frustrated with workmen who only do half a job. I would have thought he should have tested that it was working OK before he left.

At 1.50 I decided an hour was long enough and texted him to come back, two of them arrived this time at 2pm. By 2.10 they were gone again, yes my suspicions were correct - the thermostat was set too low. He says to give it about ½ an hour to heat up. Time to make lunch, by the time I’ve eaten it should be perfect.

At 2.45 I turned on the shower & gingerly put out my toe, yes it’s definitely warmer! What bliss, to have warm water to wash my hair in! At last.

Day 8 the hot water saga continues

Despite the promises, hot water has not been forthcoming. The plumber/electrician & his 2 apprentices arrived to install the fans this morning but when I asked him about the HWS he didn’t know anything and said I had to call Jorge. These people seem to change their stories every day! Not having Jorge’s number I phoned Arturo who was with clients and promised to call me back as soon as he had spoken with Jorge. After 4 hours I phoned Arturo again, he told me that Jorge had said he would fix it. I got Jorge’s mobile number and by this time I was starting to get pretty cranky. He asked to speak with Alberto and then said that the part he needed would cost 800 pesos and if I paid it, it would save time and it could be fixed immediately. I told him I had no intention of paying out money for something which was not my problem, he spoke with Alberto again and now who knows what‘s happening. When I asked Alberto he just shrugged & rolled his eyes. (Shades of Italy here?) I’m tired of being in the middle, and so is Arturo, who has promised to call me when Jorge arrives in the office so we can thrash it out. In the meantime it’s not looking good for hot water tomorrow!

At around 6, which is the time Arturo says Jorge often comes into the office, I decided to wander down, I could do some other things on the way there & back. Arturo was alone in the office and I could see he was getting frustrated with this whole situation as well, he had been thinking of leaving this agency anyway and this might be enough to push him over the edge. He’s a really nice guy, seems very honest (probably too honest to be a RE agent) and doesn’t like this double dealing. Jorge on the other hand, is an older man, good talker, slippery as they come, and knows every trick in the book to avoid committing himself. Or says he will do something and then conveniently forgets.

I told Arturo, the poor guy, that I wasn’t leaving the office until the hot water situation was sorted, so he’s better get on the phone to Jorge now and find a solution. I offered 2 suggestions - either we steal the part required from one of the other apartments (only 2 of the 6 are currently occupied), or else they give me the keys to another apartment so I can have hot showers there. Jorge agreed with the first, and so Arturo phoned the plumber who said it wasn’t such a good idea. He suspects that the heaters in all the unoccupied units will be burnt out, as the caretaker had turned on the electricity without turning on the water tap. So if he removes one and it doesn’t work, he will need to remove another and so on, with a charge for each one, and if none of them work it’s back to square one anyway. He says it’s better just to buy the new part. In the end Arturo agreed to pay for the part for which he can reimburse himself next week, and Jorge for the install. I did feel a bit bad for Arturo, it’s less than $70 and I could have paid it, but I suspect I’d have Buckley’s chance of getting the money back. And then if I start like that, it will be expected for all the other repairs.

By Mexican law the developer is responsible for all repairs & maintenance for the 1^st year after I take over, so he theoretically can’t get out of doing them, but it could certainly drag out for ages. I guess that’s also assuming that he isn’t bankrupt before then!

So I now have an appointment with the plumber at 9am and hopefully by around 9.30 I will be able to have a hot shower. Assuming he arrives on time….

End of week one

Well the time has flown by and tomorrow will mark the one week anniversary of the day I got the keys to my new condo, and my new life. (It also marks a week without hot water, but let's not go there)

Even I am amazed at how much I have accomplished in the week. I have pretty well set up everything I need for my household, the kitchen is complete and working, new mobile finally functioning, I have music, a comfy lounge, dining suite, great bed and feather pillows. I already have 2 quotes for the blinds and the last to come tomorrow. Half a dozen bottles of vino in my wine rack, freshly squeezed orange juice every morning, capuccino machine working perfectly. And my own shopping trolley.

I have contributed to this community a not inconsiderable amount of cash in the last week, and the blinds will chew another large chunk. I think I'm single-handedly supporting half of Playa! My young laundry girl Mayra did a great job today with my 5.5kg of washing for 55pesos, it came back clean, folded, smelling sweetly, and still warm from the dryer. She's a "keeper" for sure, and it's nice to know my contribution will help her life. Ditto Alberto the plumber/electrician who will tomorrow, Arturo assures me, install a new hot water system and my ceiling fans (less than $A30 each to install). They have even brought me the colour charts so the place can be painted in my choice of colour, including feature walls, now that's a bonus!

I have arranged timings so that I either start or finish each day with yoga. I love Melanie's classes and her explanations of the Mayan calendar, from yesterday's Galactic Sun, today is the White Planet wind.

There's not a lot left to do but relax and enjoy!

Joining the library

Having asked at the library about joining up, I went today with my 2 photos and electricity bill in my name and completed the paperwork.

I thought that would be it and I could start reading. But no, I have to have a current resident co-sign the documents, to guarantee that I am a trustworthy person and not about to abscond with their at least 10 year old books! Another job for the helpful Arturo, or maybe one of my yoga friends.

There was a guest teacher giving a class on "restorative Yoga" today at my fav Yoga From the Heart School. She is about my age and here giving a 6-week special course at 2 yoga schools and combining that with a holiday, and as we chatted after the class she told me she has met a really nice Mexican musician and is thinking of extending her stay. I think we could become friends, so I hope it works out for her. That's a good sign, maybe there's a chance of lurve here for me too?

It was almost weird to do a yoga class here in English! My favourite teacher here, Melanie, comes originally from Texas, so she can hint in English if I miss something completely, but I usually do just fine. Mel always relates her class to local traditions, she starts by telling us about that day's Mayan meaning. For example yesterday was about the sun, so we did exercises that related to the solar plexus. Her 90-minute class always flies by and I come out feeling refreshed & centred. I had some quesadillas at the little restaurant there afterwards, and a great juice called Rainbow - it had apple, grape, orange, pineapple & 2 other fruits I couldn't identify but was absolutely delicious.

I'm starting to get back into my rhythm here. Just need to get to the beach for a massage.

Laundry sorted

I popped in to have a chat with the girl at the closest laundromat about what the deal is for getting my laundry done. If you read my post To Buy or Not to Buy I was deciding whether or not to buy my own washing machine.

Well it seems to be a very simple operation. For 30 pesos $2.50 I can take 3kg of washing to her, she will wash, dry & fold it and I come back in about 3 hours and take it home. If I have a lot I can even transport it in my new trolley although it's only a few blocks away.

Now I can't see how it would be worthwhile to try and compete with that. The cost of electricity and gas, washing powder, water and softener alone would seem worth that, not to mention the cost of the equipment and my own time. She even said she would separate coloureds from whites (which is more than I often do, as some pink-previously-white Tshirts will testify). My new chocolate towels will probably run.

On an interesting note, dryers here work with gas. There is a gas connection in my laundry and when I asked the plumber what it was for, he looked at me rather strangely before telling me. Guess it's cheaper than electricity.

My new chariot

I've been carrying heavy bags back from the supermarkets since I arrived. I did bring a fold-up bag with wheels but it's not very strong and I don't think it will go the distance, since I'm likely to be a pedestrian rather than a driver for the foreseeable future here.

While in Walmart last evening a gorgeous, very strong-looking shopping trolley took my eye, and at a little more than $20 I thought it worth the cost to avoid chiropractors' bills. Here is my new baby:

You can see it has groovy wheels which go up stairs easily (I tested it last night fully laden and am pleased to report it works just fine).

My own shopping trolley - I think this means I am now officially a granny!

Cold showers continue...

Still no hot water. The estate agent has given all the details for the replacement to the developer, and asked that it be done ASAP, but so far I have heard nothing. We are on Mexican time so I need to be patient. While it's quite bracing in the morning, it's not unbearable.

Today my main task was to get my new mobile working. Text messages wouldn't go through and when I tried to phone someone there was a long and very rapid message in Spanish of which I could make no sense. I took it to the RE agent who told me the phone needs to be registered before it can be used, it's an anti-terrorism thing I think. Got all the details to send the message, but no go. Tried the internet and it wouldn't let me past where I had to select the state in Mexico where I was born. Finally asked at another of the local phone resellers and she told me I had to go to Customer Service at the Plaza Maya and take my passport & they would sort it. The last time I went past there the line was out the door, but it was now 6.45pm and since they closed at 8 I thought I may have a chance, so I hopped on a bus with a leadfooted driver and was there in no time. There were 7 people before me on the line, but of the 20 booths, 15 were occupied so I figured it wouldn't take long. I didn't count on the fact that of those 15, less than half were actually serving customers, or, dare I say, actually working. Most appeared to be chatting amongst themselves, staring at computers or shuffling paperwork, generally doing anything to avoid making eye contact with the people in the queue. I waited 25 minutes but the man was very helpful and even complimented me on my spanish, so I was pretty pleased with the visit overall. And now the phone works, yay! I think I got a great deal - the cute little Samsung phone cost me 359 pesos ($30), I start with 100 pesos credit, and if I recharge 100 pesos in each of the next 2 months I will get another 100 pesos each month. In the end it will cost me just over $20 for a new phone and 3 months access, and 100 pesos should give me heaps of air time & messages. I have applied for international messaging so hopefully I will be able to send & receive texts from my pals at home. I will let you know when it happens.

The cost of living in Playa

You might be interested in the cost of some everyday items here: (remember the exchange rate12 pesos = $1

VO5 Shampoo 800ml 18 pesos
Oranges 1kg 4.5 pesos
5 litres of multi-use cleaning liquid 20 pesos
46" LCD Full HD TV 7646 pesos
1.5lt of peach-flavoured wine 65 pesos
Mangoes 6.5 pesos a kg
Bananas 5 pesos a kg
Yoplait drinkable yoghurt 220ml - 2 for 10 pesos
My new large white coffee mugs with silver detail 9.57 pesos each
Frozen 4 cheese small pizza 21 pesos
Bean and cheese burritos frosen 7.7 pesos
12 rolls of scented toilet paper (not the scratchy stuff) 19 pesos
Set of 3 teflon-coated saucepans & 2 frypans, all with lids plus 6 teflon utensils 599 pesos
15ft superduper fridge 5898 pesos

Now you can see why I said the cost of living here is a fraction of what it is in Aus. Living here for a year would almost pay for itself with the savings you made. I have never seen mangoes in tropical Queensland for 50c a kg, not in the last 20 years anyway.

You could spend $20-$30 on dinner if you went to one of the swish restaurants on 5th Ave. Or you could have Thai green curry with noodles at Babes for 70 pesos including a soft drink. Lunch at Tortas del Carmen for 35 pesos includes chicken breast schnitzel, rice, beans and salad with a bottomless fruit cordial. Finish it off with a delicious Latte Frappe at Ah! Cacao for 32 pesos. Or indulge in something deliciously wicked at Celine's French patisserie.

It's a wonderfully economical life, and yes I hate to brag but it's MY life! Taking bookings for visitors......

A working kitchen!

The plumber/electrician (they seem to do both here) came this afternoon to check out the HWS and stove, neither of which appeared to be working. I had been nagging Arturo since I moved in about the lack of hot water, wimp that I am. I've washed my hair once in cold water and I'm hoping not to have to do it again.

So there's good news, and there's bad news. Let's start with the bad.

The HWS is caput. Whoever installed it turned it on I think without turning on the water tap. Or maybe that it's been heating and heating with no-one to use it. Whatever - "La resistencia" has died. The 2 alternatives now are to send it away for guarantee or buy a new one.  I made it quite clear that it wouldn't be me buying a new one.  The plumber phoned Arturo, and I think the outcome was that Arturo would need to contact the developer to get his permission to replace it. Either way, I can't see me having hot water for a few days yet, although the plumber did promise to contact me again tomorrow. Is this starting to sound like Italy again??

2 lots of good news - I now have a tradesman contact which will be useful when I find the ceiling fans I want to have installed. I can also get the kitchen light switch moved to a more convenient place rather than having to squeeze past the fridge (my fault for buying a large fridge).

The stove is now working perfectly, and I even cooked dinner tonight. And the fridge is now humming away happily, complete with a bottle of Lambrusco which I hoed into at dinner - the first wine since I've been here. There is a fast freeze option, so I put the bottle direct from the supermarket bag into the freezer and by the time I put away the rest of the groceries and cooked my steak it was pleasantly chilled. It's looking a little bare at the moment, but it won't be long before I get it stocked up.

Today I bought an expresso machine, cutlery, glasses and coffee mugs. I still need more sharp knives and some good wine glasses, but for the end of day 4 I'm very pleased with my progress. Tomorrow I'm aiming to start back to yoga. Now if I can just conquer this jetlag and get to sleep before 3am! It's probably not helping that my list of 5000 things to do keeps spinning around my head, and when my body finally stops my mind starts to plan and prioritize. Maybe some more of that Lambrusco might be just the trick......

Love the cinema?

For film lovers, I am going to make you very, very jealous!

Plaza Maya shopping centre in Playa is a 5peso bus trip of about 5 minutes, and they have a multi-cinema complex where you can watch films (In original language with Spanish subtitles) in air-conditioned comfort - very useful when it's hot and sticky in Playa (most of the time).

And the cost of this entertainment is the princely sum of 35 pesos. Given that the exchange rate is 12 pesos to the Aussie dollar, that's a little less than $3 a film session. It will be worth it for the air con alone!

Playing this week in English is Black Swan, The Rite starring Anthony Hopkins, The Fighter, Just go with it with Adam Sandler & jen Aniston, and Burlesque. I don't normally go for horror, but The Rite looks interesting, or maybe Burlesque? And 127 hours starts next week.

You'll know where to find me in the heat of the day - relaxing at the movies!

For everyone who's been asking me "What are you going to do all day?", you can add this to the list of yoga, beach, shopping and beach massage. Yes it's a tough life here (but someone has to do it).

On Mexican Time - the blind man cometh

The man to measure the blinds was due at 10am today. My fridge was due for delivery between 10 and 11. Since jetlag is still keeping me awake until at least 3am, I had to set the alarm to make sure I was up and about in plenty of time to go out and get some yoghurt for breakfast and be back. I needn't have bothered, could probably have slept in until 10.30.

The delivery men arrived at 10.59 with the fridge & microwave. He showed me the delivery note where it was written that the cost was for the ground floor only - Omar at the supermarket didn't tell me that! He said he would still do it, but would I kindly add something to the cost for drinks? When I asked how much he said it was up to me. The poor guys struggled up the stairs with the heavy fridge so I was happy to give them some extra. I can't plug in the fridge for 6 hours he tells me. It's very large, and when measuring the space I didn't take into account that the light switch for the kitchen is inside. Fortunately I can get my small hand in there, but it's something I will need to move if possible, one for the electrician.

I cleaned the microwave shelf and discovered that there is no hole for the power cord to go through to the power point. One for the builder's list.

I tried the stove this morning with Martin the caretaker's help. It doesn't appear to be working. Oh dear, I will have to keep eating out!!!!!! Another for the builder's list.

Finally the blind man cometh at 11.59 - he even said buenos tardes so he knew it was afternoon. No apology of course, we are on Mexican time. It's time to slow down, no problems. I'm sure I will get used to it. He has taken measurements, and it looks like I will have rollups in the living room and roman blinds in the bedrooms in a nice taupe colour. I will call in later to his shop to get the quote and he says it will be 10 days til delivery.  I also have at least 1 more phone number to call for more quotes and I'm sure one of them said delivery is within 3 days which suits me better. I'm feeling a bit vulnerable with people being able to see in, I'm sure they wouldn't be able to lift my large TV down the stairs without someone seeing, but I do like my privacy.

So now I'm free to go out for the day, might have lunch at Babe's noodles.

Mine's bigger than yours

I am now the proud owner of a 46" LCD Full HD TV set. My previous TV being a 32" model, I'm sure I will find the size a bit of a shock for the first 5 minutes or so.

I also bought a DVD player which says it converts all DVDs to HD quality, and a stereo where I dock my iPod and it both charges and plays.

So far, so good. The stereo is working well and I'm enjoying the dulcet tones of Laura Fygi singing Solamente Una Vez as I type. (If you don't know Laura, type in her name on Utube and you can listen to some of her music, she sings in several languages and has a lovely mellow voice) I'm happy once I have music. But I can't yet enjoy my huge TV as I need to arrange for cable for both it and the internet. I have so far found 2 providers but one only seems to do TV so if Arturo can't come up with other suggestions I might just connect up the TV for a start.

The delivery man

An interesting concept, the delivery man. Shops and supermarkets here do not have their own delivery service, but either they or you contact the man with the ute. When I bought my large TV yesterday, I had to complete the purchase and leave the shop, then find the man who has a stall outside and arrange the transport with him. it's an instant service - he quoted me 150 pesos (about $12) and then loaded the TV, DVD, stereo, saucepan set and 4 pillows, I hopped in the front and off we went. I thought he might have had trouble manoevring the 46" TV up to the 2nd floor, but no, he just slung it over his shoulders as though it weighed nothing and walked right up. I had to move it later, as without blinds yet I didn't want it in full view. (Although it's a security building and you need a key to get in the gates, you just never know.) And it certainly didn't weigh nothing when I tried to slide it along.

I'm only about a 5min drive from the shop so the round trip took him no more than 20 minutes. It's cheap by our standards, I usually pay in Aus between $40 and $70, more if there is more than 1 item  or it's large or heavyand/or it has to go up stairs. But in Mexico that's good wages and all cash. Probably a good business for a man with a ute.
Just wanted to give you the heads up in case you're thinking of coming here and setting up a business....

Alcohol rules in Mexico

While shopping at the supermarket a few days ago, a nice young employee came up and asked if I spoke English. I thought it was going to be some sort of survey, but no, he just wanted to advise me because I had a bottle of wine in my trolley, that alcohol can only be sold until 10pm at night, and 5pm Sundays. The store is still open til 11pm, but they block off the alcohol area and even if you have put it in your trolley before 10, if it's after 10 by the time you get to the checkout, it won't scan. Of course you can still buy alcohol in bars and nightclubs, so if you are determined to write yourself off you can do so, but not for takeaway.

What was I doing at the supermarket at 10pm you might ask? Well jetlag has now kicked in and I'm wide wide awake in the evenings so I might as well be doing something useful like shopping. I need to buy everything but without a car to transport it home I only buy what I can carry each day. So each day I cross a few things off my list.

No hot water - echoes of Italy???

What is it about me and hot water? I have a brand new HWS in my apartment. The switches on the meter box are all on, but the water coming out of the taps is NOT hot. I have checked everything I can find but no go.

Hopefully it won't be a 6 week saga like it was in Italy. At least it's warm here, but I'm not a girl who likes cold showers, even worse when I have to wash my hair.
Top of the list for Monday.....

Day 3 - even God rested on Sunday!

I got up late again and decided to brave the cold shower and wash my hair. It was an invigorating experience but at least I felt better. Today is a day of rest after shopping myself out in the last few days. I also have to make a list of repairs, etc needed for the final handover of my apartment. But first off to have breakfast. I was too late for pancakes (panqueques) at Maccas, so contented myself with peach drinkable yogurt, orange juice and a custard danish, followed by my fav iced vanilla latte. All of that cost me 25 pesos, about $2.
I unpacked the saucepan set I bought yesterday, fitted nicely into the deep drawer next to the stove. Haven't tried the stove yet - I think its sheer size is daunting, it's a 75cm model with all sorts of whizz bang features. I'm sure I will conquer my fears soon, particularly now that I have saucepans. Although I don't yet have a dinner set or cutlery so I couldn't eat whatever I cooked except by hand. I have my eye on a glass set for 6. none of the others have particularly appealed. This one only has dinner plates, soup plates and bread & butter plates, so I won't end up with useless cups and saucers.
Spent the afternoon listening to music, pottering, and updating this blog.
Decided to go down to Babe's for some Thai green curry noodles as I didn't make it last night, but when I got there it was closed - no signs so it's probably just a Sunday thing. Found a place around the corner, full of locals, so I stopped and ate 3 quesadillas (Tortillas cooked on a griddle and filled with cheese and meat or chicken or veges). The spicy chicken breast with cheese was great, also the beef and mushroom. Fresh papaya juice to round it off, came to 85 pesos all up ($7).
Decided to go to the Mega supermarket for a coffee & donut, and when I got there I discovered that today was the last day for the fridge promotion of 1000 pesos off, so I had to make my decision. Some of the others I had been looking at were sold, so I ended up with a nice silver LG 15ft which should hold enough chocolate, wine and icecream for my immediate needs! I added a microwave, and even bit the bullet and bought the dinner set. All will be delivered tomorrow around 10, which is when the blind man is coming, I mean the man to measure for the blinds. So with a functioning fridge I will have no more excuses not to cook and eat at home. Except, "I don't feel like it" which is always valid.
I also bought myself a juicer and 2kg of oranges, so I'll have fresh juice for breakfast. Oops, no glasses, may have to drink it from the jug!
It's now 11pm and I still haven't done the list of repairs. Oh well, jetlag still apparent, I'm not yet tired so will go off and do it now.

An outsider's view of Playa del Carmen

Thanks to Yucatan Living, here is their view of my adopted town:

If Cancun is King and Cozumel is the Queen of the Sea (or maybe Isla Mujeres wants to be the Queen…?), then Playa del Carmen is the Princess of the Mayan Riviera.
Everyone knows about the King, with its behemoth all-inclusive hotels on beaches (better than ever after Wilma) boasting the softest, whitest and coolest sand in this hemisphere. And of course the Queen, the biggest island off the coast of the Mayan Riviera, is a divers’ and snorklers’ paradise.
But Playa (as it is known to all those who are too lazy to say "Playa del Carmen"), ahhhh, Playa! Playa is both charming and annoying, like all princesses. Beautiful, sweet, hip and sassy… a modern-day Mexican beach princess whose passport has stamps of many countries. She has a cell phone in one hand, a shopping bag in the other, and sand between her painted toes.
A sleepy baby of a town with unpaved streets less than ten years ago, Playa del Carmen is all grown up now and has been discovered by travelers from all over the world. Playa was a much more intimate place when we started going there, just five short years ago. We’ve heard that Playa del Carmen is the fastest growing city in the Americas. With its limitations on building heights and zoning laws (unusual in Mexico), it seems at least to be growing with some intelligence, but it is definitely more crowded and less relaxed than it used to be. Still, Playa del Carmen offers up peaceful beaches and clear Caribbean waters without the cost or crowds or complications of Cancun. Oh, you can spend as much money here as you would in Cancun. But you can also enjoy proximity to the water, world-class shopping and entertainment, and delicious dining for a lot less.

The common thread through the entire tourist area is Fifth Avenue, the main walking and shopping street that runs parallel to the beach. The south end of Fifth Avenue is the beginning of PlayaCar, a large small city of a development with resort-style hotels, condominiums and single-family houses for rent or for sale and at least one 18-hole golf course. It is also marked by the pier that accommodates the ferry to Cozumel and the cruise ship day-trippers. The north end of the tourist area used to be the Hotel Gran Porto Real, then it was the twin beach clubs of Mamitas and Playa Toucan. But the north end is where the most growth seems to be, so who can say where "the end" is today. Certainly nowhere currently in sight.
The biggest hotels in Playa del Carmen are tiny compared to Cancun, and there are many small boutique hotels here. There’s a hotel to fit every taste and budget. Most hotels are less than three blocks from the beach, though not very many are actually ON the beach. Somehow, in Playa, that’s okay. And for our money, a hotel on or near Fifth Avenue is the best bet. Everything… the beach, the restaurants, the shopping, the dive shops, the ATMs… it’s all just a hop, skip and a jump from your bed and your shower.
And there is so much to choose from in just a few blocks! You can choose from a hip luxury hotel located in the thick of the nightly scene like Mosquito Blue or Deseo (we love Deseo’s 2nd-story pool and bar), a mid-priced centrally-located hotel like Jungla Caribe (one of the oldest hotels in Playa with a great people-watching restaurant), upscale and luxurious condo rental like Villas Sacbe (hidden away on 1st Ave), one of our favorites La Tortuga with its cool lagoon-like pool in the center, a traditional beach resort hotel like Las Palapas, or the ultra-moderns: the new Mosquito Beach hotel that is, yes, on the beach or the decidedly hip Basico, which is not. There is also of course, the Blue Parrot, which has been slowly taking over various hotel spaces on the beach and has become a complex of hotel buildings, as well as a perennially popular (though loud for our taste) beach bar and restaurant (at the end of 12th St. on the beach). It’s a nice place to visit for the beach proximity and for sitting on the swings at the bar, but there are better places to eat. The Gran Porto Real (the biggest hotel in central Playa) has recently expanded to be even grander and has a lot of rooms, all of which seem to have a view of the water. If you are on a budget, places like the Luna Blue Hotel (formerly the Hotel Zanzibar) or La Rana Cansada provide more basic rooms for usually less than $100 a night.
If you drive to Playa, expect to park your car on the street, which is easy to do except on the busiest weekends, and leave it there. Most of what Playa del Carmen has to offer is within walking distance. Walking up and down Fifth Avenue is a favorite pastime after a day at the beach. Some people seem to just skip the beach and spend all day shopping. Not our cup of tea, but there’s plenty of shopping to satisfy even the most dedicated.
The restaurants in Playa are legion, and there are constantly new ones being opened. As residents of Yucatan, we come to Playa for great Italian food, great wine and great seafood. Italians have settled in Playa in great numbers, so the Italian food, from cappucinos to carpaccio, is fabulous. Five years ago, you couldn’t find more than two brands of Cabernet, but wine lists have been growing and deepending in Playa, and now the choices are much better. If you are a wine lover, try the Glass Bar on the corner of 5th Avenue and 12th St. or Sur Pizzaria Grill, Wine Bar & Restaurant on Calle Corazon just two blocks north. Both restaurants have both outstanding food and some of the most comprehensive wine lists in the Yucatan (and we know about these things!). Most restaurants provide outdoor seating under the trees and stars, with views onto Fifth Avenue or the beach. Far fewer provide air conditioning… in fact, we cannot think of any. Dining in Playa del Carmen is very much an outdoor experience.
Did we mention shopping? A serious shopper can walk the length of Fifth Avenue in the cool of the evening, choosing from street vendors from Chiapas or designer clothes in the stores, Mexican pottery, silver jewelry, handcrafts, Mayan art and everything in between. Most stores in Playa are not chain stores and a dedicated shopper will find more variety here than in the malls of Cancun, often at better prices. But if you just spilled suntan oil on your favorite pair of Diesel jeans, you can probably find those on Fifth Avenue too.
Playa del Carmen also has a good assortment of internet cafes, so you never have to be out of touch with the folks back home, unless of course you want to be. Our favorite is at the Zoo Café, on Fifth Avenue half a block north of Calle Corazon. The computers are clustered around a central island in the middle of a restaurant, and you can have a cool drink, a cappuccino or a sandwich while you are checking your email. It’s a little pricier than most, but the connections are fast and reliable. And the sandwiches (our favorites are the tomato and mozzarella on french bread) are good and cheap.
Our daughter and friends love the nightlife in Playa. Our favorite place is the quiet bar and restaurant on the beach at Fusions. But we’re old. We can see (and hear!) various night clubs and bars in town providing music, drinks and sometimes excellent live music. Unlike in Cancun, you can walk from one to the next without having to get in a car or bus, and then walk back to your hotel when the night is over. Much safer for you and the other people on the highway.
For your first night in Playa, we suggest going to the corner of Fifth Avenue and 12th Street, which is the unofficial center of Fifth Avenue. You can have dinner at anyplace you can see and it will be good. Head down to the beach, and you’ll find more places to drink and eat. You might be able to walk in and have a drink at the Blue Parrot beach bar, or they might be charging a cover that night (this is a new development). One way or another, get down to the beach. Then just keep walking south to the pier. If you are so inclined, have a drink at Señor Frogs (or not…. we don’t) or walk to the end of the pier and look at the lights of Cozumel across the way (we do like to do that). Walk back on Fifth Avenue where you’ll find more places to drink and mingle, too numerous to mention. Back at 12th St., if you turn left away from the beach, there are two nightclubs on that block, as well as a popular late-night pizza place and our favorite Banamex ATM. Or just continue north on Fifth Avenue for more shopping, dining and partying options. There are new places springing up all the time, we can’t keep on top of them all and it’s pointless to try. Have fun and discover your own special place.
If you haven’t done too much partying the night before, you can have breakfast at one of our favorites, the Cafe Tropical right on Fifth Avenue or the peaceful garden restaurant called Cueva del Chango’s off of Fifth Avenue in the North. Or just pick up a bagel and cappucino at Java Joe’s on 10th Street just inland from 5th Avenue. After breakfast you’ll find that Playa del Carmen is a great base from which to scuba dive, snorkel, or take day trips to cenotes, visit the water and wildlife parks of Xel-Ha and Xcaret, Tulum or the many other attractions of the Mayan Riviera. Playa is central to all of it, which probably accounts for some of its growing popularity.
Taxis can always be found at the corner of 5th Avenue and 14th Street. The bus station is located at the south end of Fifth Avenue one block from the pier (and across the street from a McDonalds and an ATM). Playa del Carmen is located 42 miles (68 km) south of Cancun and can be reached by bus from Merida or Cancun.
So now you know some of the details. But nothing we can write can communicate the gestalt of Playa del Carmen. You have to go there. Experience the heady combination of style and sand that is friendly, beautiful, there to serve your every desire and just a tad unnerving. That continually crashing sound you hear as you walk down Fifth Avenue? That’s the sound of international investment dollars pouring into the terra firma of Playa del Carmen, guaranteed to grow into montones (mounds, mountains) of money. Playa is always a fun place to visit.

YUCATAN LIVING is an online resource in English for new and established residents of the Yucatan peninsula. It has a wealth of useful information for the whole area although much of it is specific for the Merida area where I stayed last year.

To buy or not to buy (a washer)

I'm rethinking my plan to buy a washing machine. At around $300 it's not that I can't afford the cost. There are no clotheslines in my condo complex, so I would need to buy both a washer & dryer, or else have clothes airers around the place which doesn't really work for sheets & towels.

There are lots of lavanderias around which do your washing for 10 pesos a kilo. (exchange rate 12 pesos to $1A) You leave it there in the morning, they wash, dry and fold it and you collect it in the afternoon. In Merida last year I usually managed to accumulate about 3kg of washing a week, so that's 30 pesos weekly including washing powder & electricity. At 3395 pesos for my own washer, it would take at least a few years to recoup the cost, not to mention power, detergent and the cost of a dryer.

Think I'll wait and see how the laundry girls go.

Arturo tells me that for about 250 pesos a week I can get a girl to come in and clean, do the washing and ironing, maybe even do some cooking. So that's another alternative, and it will be injecting money into the local economy, helping to support a family. (I need to think that way so I don't feel it's slave labour!)
There is a girl who will be doing the final clean on my apartment so I will talk to her tomorrow about the cost for weekly cleaning only. It will be useful to have someone who can do that if I have someone else staying here and need to have sheets and towels changed & washed.

Arriving in Cancun

My Qantas flight from Sydney touched down at 9.50am in LAX, and I managed to get through immigration (complete with fingerprints), found my bags, and not a major delay through customs. Terminal 6, where my flight to Cancun via Houston left from, was about a 500m walk, that's OK after 13 hours sitting, and I managed well with 44kg of luggage plus backpack. Continental's checkin is all automated, the only delay the security checkpoint ( at least I didn't get the full body pat-down this time!) and I was at the gate with about 45 minutes to spare.  It's about 2 1/2hrs to Houston where I had less than an hour turnaround, but as it turned out there was a problem with the door which delayed the flight to Cancun for almost an hour. So I arrived in Cancun at 10pm, tired and hungry. My phone wasn't working, think I'm out of credit, but a helpful young man in a rent-a-car booth used his mobile to phone my hotel to send the bus for me.
They told me where to wait, but the area was full of sharks trying to get me to travel with them, telling me that the hotel didn't have a shuttle bus (it did), the airport was about to close and I'd be left there alone all night if I didn't go with them. Finally the bus arrived and I learnt a new word "piratas", which is what they call these touts.
It was about 11pm by the time we got to the hotel Suites Gaby. I wasn't expecting a lot as I had paid around $25, but the room was spotless - brand new, comfy mattress, lovely bathroom. I can definitely recommend this hotel to anyone going to Cancun it was great value and the staff extremely helpful (they speak English too). I went out to get a snack - there are 2 Oxxo shops within a 100m walk in each direction, and "dinner" consisted of drinkable yoghurt, rice pudding and a chilled cafe latte.
A great hot shower and I crashed into bed.

Flying Premium Economy

I was most impressed by Qantas Premium Economy on my flight to my new home. Not only is there MUCH more space, I loved the personalized service - they greet you by name, a personal welcome onboard to go with your glass of champagne when you board (nothing like champagne to help deal with the stress of take-off!). The food (Neil Perry menu) was delicious. You can even order a toasted sandwich with your choice of ingredients at any time during the flight. Real plunger coffee, and real milk. Now I wonder if I will ever be able to go back to flying cattle class....